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There were other similarly soupy presentations - like the roasted veal sausage with flageolets - that would have been better with less liquid.

At least the flavor was bold, bolstered by good Avery Salvation ale enriched with foie gras.

A moist pork chop with mashed sweet potatoes and a chipotle barbecue sauce proved that the kitchen had enough finesse to properly cook a chop. And the crème brulee was so wrong that, with the tap of a fork, its chunky caramel crust capsized and sank beneath the surface of its liquidy, unset custard. Another gastropub grows in place of a former South Philly Italian, as the old Felicia’s makes way for a handsome neighborhood bar with serious beers and some culinary ambitions.

Seared scallops with fava beans made the most of good ingredients, even if the brothy vanilla-flavored lobster and rum sauce didn't taste nearly as intriguing as I had hoped.Devil's Den also made some of the best mussels I've had in a while, which, if a beer place is going to do something right, is a good place to start.The mollusks basked in distinctive and vivid sauces, whether a coconut Thai curry flickering with ginger and spice, a classic white wine broth with garlicky parsley butter, or, my favorite, the Aventinus, rich with dark wheat beer, pancetta, cream and leeks.It's been a signature trend here for years, helping Philadelphia to secure its growing national reputation as one of America's beer meccas. The fact that one can now get a draft of Belgian Tripel or Kensington-brewed Walt Wit on tap at dozens of corner bars around town is an evolutionary step forward for any city.But a gush of recent newcomers has flowed into the city so fast that the concept's limits are being tested, like a pint of ale frothing over from a hasty pour. It's the "gastro" part (i.e., the cooking) that has become the new generation's biggest challenge.

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